Introduction

With this mod you are able to adjust the fuel mixture over the whole range by adjusting the Air Temp Sensor, to fool the Engine Control Unit into thinking it is colder then it really is & in turn the fuel map will be made to run richer, all adjustments are done through one adjustable knob.

You will have to cut one wire, solder 2 wires & drill 4 holes in the airbox, if you do not want to drill the 4 holes then a DNA Stage 2 filter must be fitted to gain the full potential of this mod.

This mod will give the bike a smoother ride as well as better mid range power. It will help with surging & low speed throttle control. It works well for Standard bikes or with K&N or DNA stage 1 & 2 filters, or pipes.

The single fuel pot. Tricking the Engine Control Unit (By Kev)

Carry this modification at your own risk.

Parts needed, from your local electronics shop:

• 1X variable 0 to 1k ohm resistor 50VAC rated 0.05W or more.
• You will need 2 lengths of black 80cm long electrical wire, 1.5 to 2mm thick outer, with a 0.5 to 0.75mm thick copper core.
• 5mm X 60cm heat shrink to incase the black wires.
• 3mm X 10cm heat shrink.
• Small container (box) to fit the resistor into.
• An O ring to seal the shaft of the resistor.
• Knob to turn the resistor.
• Sealant to seal the casing to make it water proof. I use a Volkswagen engine sealant D 176 404 A2 with low silicone content, as the first one I made the sealant fumes in the case over time damaged the contacts of the resistor & the resistor failed.
• Soldering iron, solder.
• Lighter

Making the mod

Solder the 2 X 80 cm wires to the resistor, put a short bit of 3mm heat shrink on each solder point at the resistor.
Slide the two wires through the 5mm heat shrink, shrink down the heat shrink using a lighter or soldering iron.
Drill the box, so the resistor shaft can stick through, drill a small hole to pass the wires through.
Add sealant to the resistor face & push it through the box, tighten the securing nut.
Add O ring to the resistor shaft, turn resistor anti-clock wise & add knob, mark box for off position.
Add sealant around wires that go through box, add sealant to lid of box & close up box so that the box is water proof.

(click on thumbnails to enlarge)

Fitting Instructions

• Remove seat & the left side cover. Ignition switch off & key removed from bike
• Run the Black wires from the Kev Mod to the Air temp sender, on the left side of the air box near the top. Now cut the Black/ Blue wire in two. Then solder the Black wires from the Kev Mod one to each end of the Black/Blue wires. Seal with heat shrink.

(click on thumbnails to enlarge)

• The Air temp circuits are now complete.
• Refit side cover back on bike.
• You are now ready to set the adjustment of the resistor.
• Hold in the select & reset buttons on your dash at the same time, turn on the ignition key. Hold the buttons in until Diag is displayed. Let go buttons. Push & hold both buttons again. Until 01 & a number is displayed, this is the throttle angle. Push the select button until 05 & a number is displayed. This is the Air Temp reading

Now turn the knob all the way to the left anti clock wise this is the start point check your reading on the dash, then turn the knob clock wise to adjust the temp down by 5 to 10 from the displayed reading.

I found -5 to -10 deg from the actual dash reading in zone 05 for 2004 to 2006 models and -5 to -8 for the 2007 onwards models, to be the best mixture for my bike. You can try different settings to suit your bike by adjusting the Air temp adjuster. Important ride the bike & get it up to running temp, go back & fine tune the settings again. Settings must be set at operating temp .

The Air box mod

You do not have to drill your air box if you do not want to, I do recommend you at least fit a stage 2 filter with the fuel mod. The best HP gains are from fitting both stage 1 & 2 filters, snorkel removed & air box drilled.
Drill 4x holes 28mm, as per photos. Remove snorkel.

(click on thumbnails to enlarge)

Most important, clean the air box thoroughly after drilling. Use your vacuum cleaner to remove all the bits.

Setting the CO

Turn key off, hold down buttons select & reset together & keep them down with your left hand. Turn on the key keeping down the buttons until the screen says Diag, release the buttons. Push the select button until it says CO, then push the select & reset buttons together until CO1 is displayed, then push the select & reset buttons together until a reading is displayed.
This is your CO1 setting so write it down in your service book for safe keeping. You can now increase the mixture by going up in numbers using the select or down using the reset buttons.
Adjust your CO1, between 10 & 15 above your STD setting.
Turn the key off, this will store the setting.

What HP do you get from that mod.

HP gains. I have taken the best gains in HP power for each mod off the Dyno sheet, not the max peak power reading but the best result for that mod. I have before & after runs of all of these mods that I tested on the Dyno.

By just adding up the totals of each mod will not come to the same total in HP when tested on the Dyno, when combining mods you may get even more or less HP then the totals added up from below. I have posted many Dyno sheets on the forum for different bikes with the same mods, so I have chosen one bike & took the results for that bike, so there may be results out there that differ marginally. Use this as a guide line & not an exact science.

• Standard filter, snorkel removed. = 0.3HP
• Standard filter, snorkel removed, Kev air box mod. = 0.5HP
• Stage 1 filter & snorkel removed = 1.2 HP
• Kev fuel mod, no other mods. = 1.6HP
• Kev fuel mod, Kev air box mod, snorkel removed, standard filters. = 2.4HP
• Carbon Cans only. = 2.2HP
• DNA stage 2 filter only, standard main filter = 3.1HP
• Stage1 & 2 DNA Filters snorkel removed. = 3.8HP
• Kev fuel mod, Kev air box mod stage 1 & 2 filters, snorkel removed. = 4.2HP
• Kev fuel mod, Kev air box mod, no filters. = 4.8HP (Which shows there is still a 1/2 HP to get from the air box)
• PCIII. = 2.6HP but your fuelling is correct over the whole fuel range & power is improved across the whole rev range. Test was with CCC, stage 1 & 2 filters snorkel removed air box drilled. The gain would be less if the PCIII was on a standard bike with no mods.
• Kev fuel mod, Air box & filter mod, CCC, baffles removed, TPS set to 25. = 8.6HP
• Biggest gain I have seen on a Dyno sheet is from Off The Road, Big bore, cam, filters PCIII & pipe. = 16.3HP